Islamabad | A Nepalese team performed K2’s first winter ascent on Saturday, the second highest peak on the planet (8611 meters) and the only “8000” ever climbed in winter, thus landing the last great mountaineering legend.
“We are proud to be a part of human history and cooperation, teamwork and a positive mental attitude push the boundaries we think are possible,” he said. Nirmal Poorja on her Instagram account as part of the trip.
The former British Special Forces soldier, who climbed fourteen “8000” in 2019 with oxygen in six months and six months, is the leader of the team alongside Nepal mountaineering star Mingma Gayalje Sherpa.
10 Nepalis gather at the bottom of the K2 peak in Karakoram Massif, known as one of the most dangerous mountains in the world, to climb the last few meters together, to sing the national anthem and to plant the flag there. Of their country.
Nepalis, who have been known for decades for their aptitude towards high mountains, have never kept a slight climb on the first winter ascent of the peak, which was previously at an altitude of more than 8000 meters, leaving a unique polar preservation.
Mineral cone with elegant stripes lost on the border of Pakistan and China, the last “8000” K2 to thwart man’s attempts in the winter. [en été] 1954 by the Italians Lino Lacedelli and Achille Campagnoni.
Some expeditions from the first in 1987-1988 attempted a winter climb. But so far no one has climbed 7650 meters. Nicknamed the “Wild Mountain”, it was broken up under the extreme conditions of K2.
K2 is subject to very violent winds in winter, reaching speeds of up to 200 km per hour. Temperatures drop to -60 to C on the summit.
Winter is harsher in Karakoram than in the Himalayas. This explains why Nepal peaked at 8000 m in the 1980s during the winter, while four others in Pakistan – including K2 – were overtaken in 2010.
There were a lot of casualties in the K2, where more than 80 people died, against almost 450 people who successfully climbed. His team said Sergei Mingot, a Spaniard, fell and injured one leg while returning to base camp on Saturday.
This year, K2 has four different teams and sixty climbers, surpassing all previous expeditions.
Three members of the four starting teams, the Nepalese, reunited and were able to show the courage to attack the summit, without the wind, taking advantage of the window of good weather.
Under the right weather conditions, they removed the last technical difficulties, including the terrible “Bottleneck”, a narrow path well bent and covered by a Xerox, where 11 people died together in August 2008, in the worst tragedy ever. K2 knows.
At least one member of the Nepal team, Mingma Gayalje Sherpa, planned to reach the summit without using oxygen. However, the Purists worry that the whole team apparently did not do the same thing.
“No one deserves that much”
“Mingma Ji”, her nickname, has already reached 13 of 14 peaks out of 8, including K2 twice. [en été]. He left prematurely last winter on the same mountain. He told AFP in December that he was shocked by the cold and learned a lot from the experience.
“If you look at the history of the 14 peaks [de plus de 8000 m] In winter you will not find any sherpa on the list, only Poles, Italians, Spaniards, but not Nepal. So this is an opportunity for us to put the name of Nepal on the charts, ”he declared.
“I am happy to see my country’s flag on this list this winter. It’s one of my big dreams now,” he added.
This success was well received in Nepal. “It simply came to our notice then. For decades, Nepali has helped foreigners climb the Himalayas, but we have not received the recognition we deserve, ”Kami Rita Sherpa told AFP.
“Today, on K2, 10, Nepalis made history and demonstrated our courage and our strength,” he added, adding that he had climbed Mount Everest 24 times.
The Polish Himalayan Association responded, “Our heartfelt congratulations to the Nepalese climbers on this historic first climb of the K2 this winter. No one deserves them so much.”
The Spanish climber dies during another ascent of K2
Spanish mountaineer Sergei Mingote conquered the second highest peak on the planet, Karakoram Massif on Saturday, capturing the Nepalese team for the first time in the winter.
“The tragic death of Sergei Mingot on K2. He wanted to continue history by taking part in the first expedition to climb this peak in the middle of winter and his life was in a tragic danger,” Spanish Prime Minister Pedro Sanchez tweeted, just hours after the Nepal team succeeded in the ascent.
Sergei Mingote, 49, was not part of that group, but was on another team that tried to climb to the summit another day.
He was at an intermediate camp and fell on his way back to base camp, rolling to one leg according to his team.
There were a lot of casualties in the K2, where more than 80 people died, against almost 450 people who successfully climbed.
This year, K2 was attended by four different teams and sixty climbers, more than all previous expeditions.
“Frightened by the news of the accident that ended the life of an amazing athlete,” Spanish Health Minister Salvador Illa tweeted, describing Mr Mingot as a “personal friend”.